Blog Owner: I am very proud to introduce Jude who is a fellow watch collector friend who agreed to do a write up on his Glycine and share his wealth of watch knowledge with readers of this blog. Hopefully this will only be the start of a fruitful partnership.
I also encourage other readers who are looking for an avenue to share their watch knowlege (Seiko or otherwise) to drop me a comment. This is a non-profit blog and I look forward to any contributions for the purpose of spreading watch information and knowledge.
I am Jude from Singapore and I began this hobby from about 1 year ago when I lost my old watch of 10 odd years. I wanted to find a good one to replace the lost watch and I kept reading reviews after review and before I know it, I hooked to want to find out more about watches. To me, watch collection is about appreciating the finer details in a watch and how it is interesting to you as a collector. One person’s view of the same watch might vary with another but if it is interesting to that person, it is worth hearing about it.
I just recently got to know the creator of this wonderful blog, and we realised we both like to look at the details and both of us has our own unique opinions on watches so we kept in touch. Subsequently, I was invited to write and share my watch reviews and I am quite thankful to be able to chip in with my two cents worth!
As a first review as a contributing writer to the blog, I am going to share a review on the Glycine Incursore, 44mm, ref 3922.
First and foremost, I think most readers to this blog are accustomed to seeing Seiko posts and review so I will just start with a brief introduction of the brand Glycine. Glycine was founded in 1914 in Bienne, Switzerland. It survived the war and also the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Arguably, the most iconic model in Glycine’s circulation history would be the Glycine Airman which was launched in 1953. (credits: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f18/glycine-watches-history-timeline-models-933474.html) To entice you, I have shared one of the vintage Airman from the 1960s as shown below. If you are interested in the Airman series, I urge you to take a look at this very well compiled encyclopedia of Airman information at this site: http://andres55.home.xs4all.nl/frames/airmanmodel1.htm
One of my initial impressions of the watch was that it looks rather large. This was especially so when I was watch shopping for my first luxury watch at a local retailer in Singapore and the other choices I was trying on were the Tissot Visodate and the Junghans Max Bill. While both were worthy choices as my office watch, my girlfriend decided to choose this model over the others due to its more generous and modern sizing. With my rather small wrist, a 44mm dial should be overpowering, but the watch wears surprisingly okay.
Dial and crystal
The watch crystal is made of sapphire crystal which is rather common nowadays so nothing to get really excited about.
The dial of the watch is a sort of lustrous black with a tinge of shine. There’s the Glycine Crown logo and Glycine brand printed very nicely just below the number 12. Just above the 6, there are the wordings Incursore and automatic printed in white. A nice feature that I like is how the date was placed at the 4 o’clock position compared to the usual date at 3 o’clock position. This is much neater considering that the 3 is oversized and it might not be as legible if it was placed beside the 3. I also like the white numerals used for the date against a black background and outlined with a white border. I generally like the background of the date to be black when set against a black dial. This is finished off with a Swiss Made wording near the bottom of the dial.
The markers along with the 3, 6, 9 and 12 digits are white but are almost fully covered with lume. The hands are white baton hands with the inset lined with lume. One cool thing about the hands is the detailing as it has a short black end which becomes white after the screw where all 3 hands are pivoted. One minor gripe is that the hands are not white like you see on pictures on the net but rather a sort of very light green. However, the lume is really strong and is rather obvious in a dark room. Overall, the dial, date, markers, and digits makes the dial very clean and neat that makes time telling very easy in the day and at night.
Case design and finishing
As mentioned, a 44mm watch usually looks much bigger. However, you might notice that the watch has relatively small angled lugs which taper off when you look at it from the front. If you look at it from the sides, you will notice that the lugs are slightly curved, which helps the watch sit better on the wrist. The design on the lugs helps to keep the watch more wearable and less overwhelming, especially for people like me with small wrists. Just to add, the lugs are drilled lugs, which is really useful when you need to change straps.
One thing I really like about the Incursore is the case finishing. There are 3 types of brushed finishing on the casing. On the bezel, you might notice a circular brushed finishing and the edges of the bezel is left unbrushed and you can notice a slim ring of shine around the bezel. On the front of the lugs, the case is diagonally brushed. On the sides, the case is vertically brushed. Overall, this brushed finishing creates an understated style that does not make the watch look cheap like cheaper watches which over polishes the case. I find the case finishing and details one of my favourite features about the Incursore.
The serial number (I think) of the watch is printed on in between the bottom lugs.
The crown is a screw-down with hatched detailing and the Glycine crown signed on it. There is also variations in finishing for the crown with the crown logo polished to a shine, and the backdrop brushed. I like the huge crown as it feels good when you are manually winding the watch. Also, it rather easy to screw down the crown due to the hatched design and the large size of the crown.
The caseback is a screw-in caseback with a crystal display. I do not particularly enjoy the display caseback as the movement is fairly plain ETA2824-2 movement. It is also a small movement in a big case. Some nice touches however would be the Glycine branding and the Geneva stripes finishing on the rotor. However, I still prefer the movement to be hidden, considering this is a stock ETA movement that was not extremely well decorated.
As mentioned, the movement is a stock ETA 2824-2 movement. It is an automatic movement with manual winding and hacking as well as a quick set date. Date change is rather smooth and happens around 12 midnight. Accuracy wise it is within specs even though it runs a little fast per week on my wrist. One thing about the big watch face with no markers and big numerals is that if the watch runs slightly off by say 1 minute, visually it looks like it is off by much more due to the angles created by the thick minute hands against the large dial. You kind of read time by estimating the minutes between the markers and the numerals so small timing variations “look” bigger on this set up.
Another feature that I like about the Incursore is the strap. The material nice and soft, and there the faded patterning done on the strap gives it a washed and well worn look, keeping in-line with current trends of going vintage.
As seen above, there’s a contrast stitching on the brown leather, crown logo branding on the floater, and Glycine printed on the buckle.
Overall, I really like this watch and I think Glycine is making really nice watches in the range of $1,000SGD to $2,000SGD. The level of finishing and detail at this price is really value for money, and you get a nice and reliable ETA movement inside from a brand that has some history. I think Glycine is not very strong on marketing and falls in the range where it is not really high end luxury and not cheap enough to garner enough attention but I think it is a great brand to look at if you are looking to get an affordable Swiss made watch that is not too mainstream.